Tag 1
22 July
DRIVING: Reykjavík to Osar Hostel (approx. 4 hrs)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Osar Hostel
The Íshestar bus will collect you from Reykjavík (BSI and Bus Hostel) at around 14:00 p.m. Our destination is Osar Hostel, scenically located at the Vatnsnes Peninsula by the Northern edge of the country’s map. Vatnsnes is famous for seabirds, seals and the majestic15-meter tall rock Hvítserkur – all to be marvelled at from the ocean shore, just a light hike away from our hostel. The legend goes that the eroded volcanic dyke is a petrified troll. Its name translates to “white shirt” (specifically the traditional ruffled collars worn by some Icelandic Lutheran ministers), a nod to the colour of the bird droppings that cover the monolith.
Tag 2
23 July
DRIVING: Osar Hostel to Gottorp (approx. 30 min.)
Akur to Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni (approx. 30 min.)
RIDING: Gottorp – Akur (approx. 21 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni community centre
We’ll start our horseback journey at Gottorp, a nearby farm where the horses have been enjoying a week off, grazing in a lush field. Today’s ride promises to be unforgettable. We’ll cross the lagoon-like Lake Hóp – a dream adventure for many Icelanders. The lake is saline, due to its low elevation and the tidal influence. We’ll ford it at Vaðhvammur by Myrkubjörg, heading towards the spectacular sands of Þingeyrar. The water’s depth will make it a splashy, joyful experience for the horses. A word to the wise: rubber boots might come in handy!
Just when you’ve recovered from the thrill of fording Lake Hóp, along comes Húnavatn. Here, the salmon river Vatnsdalsá flows into the lake from the south, so keep an eye out for fish darting towards the estuary right in front of us. It’s a proper moment of nature in action – everybody, quite literally, in their element!
Our horses will spend the night grazing at Akur farm near Húnavatn. As for us, we’ll drive to the community centre Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni nearby – perfectly spacious for dancing as well as for drying riding gear. In fact, providing a dancefloor and sheltering adventurous riders is part of its mission, as it is located right next to Auðkúlurétt – Iceland’s largest sheep corral, with room for a staggering 14,000 sheep (possibly a world record, but who’s counting?).
Tag 3
24 July
DRIVING: Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni to Akur (approx. 30 min)
Stóridalur to Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni (approx. 15 min)
Optional visit to Blönduós (approx. 40 min one way)
RIDING: Akur – Stóridalur (approx. 28 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni community centre
No need to unpack the sleeping bags just yet – we’re staying at Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni for another night. With the big kitchen at his disposal, our chef has something exciting planned for dinner.
From the shores of Lake Húnavatn, we’ll head inland, with flat landscapes stretching out to the left and mountain silhouettes rising to the right. The trail eventually leads us past the wavy waters of Lake Svínavatn and into the broad Svínadalur valley. Here, the horses will stay for the night at a settlement bordering Iceland’s vast, uninhabited interior.
If you fancy a little dose of civilisation before venturing further, there’s an option to visit Blönduós later in the afternoon. We can enjoy the cosy swimming pool, complete with a hot tub and steam bath, or visit the textile museum, which features beautiful Icelandic national costumes.
Day 4
25 July
DRIVING: Félagsheimilið Dalsmynni to Stóridalur (approx. 15 min)
RIDING: Stóridalur to Áfangaskáli (approx. 45 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Áfangaskáli wilderness hut
Many hours in the saddles for us today. Turning away from the settlements of the North, we bravely enter the Central Highlands – notorious back in time for roaming outlaws, elves and evil spirits. This is an opportunity to experience the country’s interior like the early settlers did: on horseback, with the wilderness all around.
Áfangaskáli is the first wilderness hut on our itinerary. It is beautifully located, on the Western shore of a gigantic lake Blöndulón. Seeing the shelter at a distance, while approaching it with the herd, stirs emotions of gratitude and awe at the thought that there used to be none in the entire area at the Viking times.
Day 5
26 July
DRIVING: Kúlukvíslarskáli to Áfangaskáli (approx. 25 km)
RIDING: Áfangaskáli to Kúlukvíslarskáli (approx. 25 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Áfangaskáli wilderness hut
After yesterday’s long mileage, we’re easing up a little today – but don’t expect the ride to be a breeze. As we head further south, the volcanic terrain gets rougher, and the horses will need to stay sharp to keep their footing. We’ll pass Sandkúlufell and Helgufell, cross a few streams, and eventually reach Kúlukvíslarskáli. We’ll leave the herd there for the night and drive back to Áfangaskáli.
Watching the vast expanse of Blöndulón, take a moment to fathom its origin. Built as a reservoir for a power plant, it’s a striking reminder of human ingenuity in the middle of nature’s untouched grandeur.
Day 6
27 July
DRIVING: Áfangaskáli to Kúlukvíslarskáli (approx. 25 km)
RIDING: Kúlukvíslarskáli to Gíslaskáli (approx. 45 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Gíslaskáli wilderness hut
Our day begins with river crossings – Kulukvísl, Seyðisá, and later Hvannavatnakvísl – against the breathtaking backdrop of Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaciers. Nestled between these icy giants lies Hveravellir, a geothermal oasis that feels almost miraculous to those who arrive on horseback rather than by car.
But while Hveravellir is a natural wonder, it has also become a hotspot for mass tourism. So, we’ll skip staying there overnight. For the same reason, we won’t take the shortcut through Kjalhraun’s lava fields, either. Instead, we’ll take the longer, quieter route to Gíslaskáli hut, and stick to the motto “less crowded, more rewarding” throughout the rest of the tour.
Day 7
28 July
RIDING: Gíslaskáli to Fosslækur (approx. 25 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Fosslækur wilderness hut
Today we will begin the ride towards the rhyolite Kerlingafjöll mountain range, which frames the Kjölur area in the East. But the trail will soon lead us back South, into broad valleys seen by few, mostly just free-roaming sheep and horsemen who search for those during yearly round-ups. In fact, lately also by researchers on quest for the Holy Grail.
Indeed, the area has become an object of particular interest among some foreign scientists who believe that, at Skipholtskrókur, there exists an underground dome created by the Knights Templar in the 13th century to hide the Holy Grail. In 2021, Iceland’s officials authorized an Italian team to search for the dome, concluding: “Although we have our doubts about it, we think this project is exciting”. Anyhow, the place is on our way to the mountain cabin Fosslækur, so if we happen to see a bunch of Italian-speaking excavators, you’ll know what they’re hoping to dig out.
Day 8
29 July
RIDING: Fosslækur to Svínanes (approx. 17 km)
ACCOMMODATION (sleeping bags): Svínanes wilderness hut
A peaceful day lies ahead – we stick to the motto “less crowded, more rewarding” throughout. Following the Grjóta river downstream, the landscape grows greener with every step. The striking Búrfell mountain will be our steady signpost, from the moment its peak comes into view until we get close enough for it to vanish from sight. At the foot of Mt Búrfell lies the hut Svínarnes – perfect for swapping stories with fellow riders.
Day 9
30 July
DRIVING: Tungufellsdalur to Blesastadir (approx. 45 min)
RIDING: Svínanes to Tungufell (approx. 35 km)
ACCOMMODATION (linen): Blesastadir guesthouse
Our trail out of the highlands leads us through the valley of Tungufellsdalur, all the way to the first settlement. Here, the horses will enjoy a week off in a field. For our final night, we will drive to the countryside. We’ll stay in a simple yet cosy guesthouse, complete with made-up beds, a hot tub, and a festive dinner to round off the adventure.
Day 10
31 July
DRIVING: Blesastadir to Reykjavík (approx. 2,5 hrs)
After breakfast, we’ll head back to Reykjavík. The Íshestar bus will drop off at BSI and Bus Hostel.
